So are mountain bike grips the same size? No. Though the internal diameter dimension has been standardized to fit just about any mountain bike handlebar (22mm being the current standard), grips come in a number of different lengths and outer diameters in order to give a more custom fit tailored for the riders preference. The grip you chose should be chosen based on a number of personal preferences. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Many riders, new to mountain biking, might choose a grip based up what they see their favorite racer or YouTuber is running, but this is a quick way to buyers remorse if we chose to not take into consideration our hand size, preferred feel, and even where we ride. Just because Mo & Hanny have great success with their grips, doesn’t mean we’re going to have the same experience. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Things To Consider When Choosing Grip Sizes<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

First off, get your hands on them; literally. Next time you’re riding with friends, at the bike park, or visiting your favorite bike shop, make it a point to just get a feel for different grips that people are running. Even if you’re not planning to buy anytime soon. Pay attention to how they feel in your hand, are they too big around for your small hands? Are they cushy enough for your liking? Are your gorilla hands too wide for them?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once you’ve performed this ‘test fitting’ a number of times, you’ll really start to narrow your focus on which grips and sizing feel best to you and your hands. I personally have gone through a bit of a ‘buy-and-try’ gauntlet myself in discovering the perfect grip and could have cut down on a lot of trial and error had I taken the time to perform this and really get into the nuts and bolts of mountain bike grips. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Inside Diameter<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The inside diameter of current mountain bike grips has been set 22mm in order to ensure a proper fit between different brands of bars, grips, brakes, shifter, etc. It is a rare occasion that a mountain bike specific grip will have a different diameter than this, but it’s still not a bad idea to just verify before you purchase as grips designed for other styles of bikes (road, cruiser, etc.) do have a different internal diameter. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

External Diameter<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

There is a multitude of different diameter grips on the market today; ranging anywhere from 39mm all the way up to 34mm. Obviously, folks with smaller hands tend to find a larger diameter grip a bit too big to comfortably wrap their hands around, which in turn can generate a fair amount of arm pump from having to maintain a death grip on the bars in order to maintain a hold. Conversely, riders with larger hands sometimes find that a smaller diameter grip doesn’t allow for the entire hand to be in contact with the grip, again creating a very non-confidence inspiring contact point. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Find a diameter that just feels right when you wrap your hands around it. It should feel as though your hands could be completely relaxed and still maintain a good hold of the grip. You’ll know it when you feel it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Length<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Grip length is a bit less crucial in how a grip feels, though it still needs to be considered in our purchase. Most mountain bike grips range length from 90mm up to 150mm. For bikes equipped with grip shifters, the shorty 90mm grips are generally used. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Many riders prefer to slide there hands inward and outward while in different riding positions and prefer the longer 150mm length to facilitate this. While others like to have a bit of handlebar hanging out past their hands, to protect from rock and tree strikes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Find a length that works with your brake\/shifter combo and allows you to ride comfortably with your index finger resting and ready on the brake lever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Channeling<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Channeling in the grip design can be a very important consideration for many riders. If you tend to sweat through your hands a lot or ride in muddy wet conditions, a grip pattern that has nice open channels to shed water can dramatically increase your ability to hold on. Grips that are completely smooth, can be pretty slippery when they get wet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Additionally, if you tend to ride more mellow trails requiring less of a grasp on the handlebars, want maximum cushioning or are not affected by slippery hand syndrome, then maybe a smoother option is for you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lock ons<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Lock-ons don’t have much of an effect on the actual size of the grip surface, but sure do a great job of keeping the grips from slipping on the bars, which is a very common problem with slip-on style grips. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For some time, most lock-ons had 2 rings, one on either end. But in recent years, several grip manufacturers have begun designing grips that have only one ring on the inboard side of the grip; and a slightly reduced internal diameter at the outer end, making for a snug fit that is proving to hold just as well as the two ring systems. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Durometer<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Durometer is the measure of how soft or hard a particular material is; the higher the number, the harder it is. Though most mountain bike grip manufacturers do not list the durometer the use, many tend to be in the 60a range. The actual lug design can give the impression that the rubber is softer or harder as well, making durometer not an easy thing to identify.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Related Questions<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

How long do grips last?<\/strong> There are a number of factors contributing to how long a set of grips might last. Durometer, riding conditions, riding technique and how you store your bike can all affect how long your grips last. Of course how often you ride as well. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

During a heavy riding season (3-4 times a week) you might expect to get a season out of them. Sitting out in the sun or just sitting in the garage, the rubber can tend to degrade without ever being used. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

What’s with the notch?<\/strong> You may have seen handlebars with a slight angle cut out of either end of the bar. This is WTB’s Pad-loc\u00ae system that is designed to keep the grips from rotating on the bars. It works great; keeps the grips in place well, but leaves you with a set of bars that you can only run this style of grip on. Or have to cut them down in order to run tradition lock-ons. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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